Voyage to Sicilia Part 5 - The Bay of Squalls
Friday 25th
October 2013 : Crotone to Rocella Ionica 63 miles
(I’m now writing this in hindsight so this is an un-edited
extract from my diary which makes slightly more interesting reading than the
logbook).
“So it goes like this – alarm goes off at 05.35, an hour
beore the sky begins to lighten, awake from fitful, dream-filled sleep, put on
thermals and other warming garb, prepare coffee and turn on computers to plot
today’s course as Tim takes the dogs out for their morning scavenge walk.
Just before the sky lightens, we spend 15 minutes faffing
about with lines, fenders, tender etc and leave harbour just as there is enough
light to give inky black waters a silvery gleam. Avoiding fishing pots, floats and other
fishing detritus, we weave our way out to sea and another day of staring at the
near horizon begins.
Italy’s distinctive shape makes it a great country to
traverse, with huge gulfs to cross so you have several “out of sight of land”
days and it forces you to bite off sizeable chunks rather than our preferred 7
hour days. The dogs are not hugely
impressed by the new regime, however.
The recognisable shape of the boot of Italy, its heel, its sole, its
toe, make it such a satisfying coast to run along, which makes up for the
(sorry Italian folks) boring landscape.”
Notes from logbook:
- 0720
Rounding Cape Colonne, sun rising through cloud line, orange/red huge
fireball.
- 0923
Just passing Le Castella, castle looks great. It may have been a better
move, with hindsight, to split the journey and overnight there, was
worried we wouldn’t get a berth.
- 1220
After 430 miles, finally adjusted autopilot (rudder sensitivity and
response) so it stops wandering 10 degrees off course. Hooray! I can’t believe we haven’t
looked at this earlier!
- 1230
Trying to get dogs to use cat litter. Pointless waste of time and money.
- 1250
Mountains at foot of Italy coming into view, quite high and impressive
this is why it is called the Bay of Squalls.
- 1430 Stunning coastline along the toe of Italy - mountainous, rugged and familiar. I miss the mountains!
Approach to Rocella Ionica
1600 Zikk Zakk (Norwegian boat)
boldly tried to navigate sandbank at Rocella Ionica harbour entrance using
their chart plotter (notorious shifting sandbanks which require very careful
navigation). We stood off and watched,
it wasn’t looking good. Luckily (some
may say), the harbour shared the same channel (14) as we’d been chattering away
on all day so were fully aware of their intentions and the wonderful Francesco,
the harbour master, intervened seconds before ZZ grounded.
I wouldn’t want to enter this harbour in any wind or sea
state.
Stayed in RI for an R&R day as fog was forecast (never
came). It reminded me a lot of the south of France, with pines and eucalyptus
running behind the proper long sandy beach.
Had a great day – beach walked into town (3km), everyone very friendly,
nice lunch, took cold beers to sunny beach and swam. Realised it was the first time we’d ever sat
on a beach together – how crazy is that??
 |
| Sandy beach, cold beer, best mate by my side (that's Tim, not the beer, honest) |
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